A long weekend in Lisbon: where to stay, what to eat and how to get around
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Short answer: stay central in Baixa or Chiado for a first visit, use the trams and metro for the steepest hills, give a morning to Belém, and keep one day free for Sintra. Four days is comfortable. Three works if you skip Sintra.
When to go
Spring and autumn are the easiest seasons for walking a hilly city. Summer is hotter and busier. Winter is mild but wetter, so pack a light waterproof. Check the forecast and any local events before you book, because both change the feel of the trip.
Where to stay
- Baixa and Chiado: central, flat in places, and close to the metro and most sights. A good default for a first visit.
- Alfama: the old quarter, full of character, with steep lanes and cobbles. Lovely to wander, harder with a suitcase.
- Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real: lively restaurants and bars. Bairro Alto in particular can be noisy at night, so ask about noise before you book.
Getting around
Lisbon is walkable but hilly, with cobbled pavements that get slippery. Shoes with good grip matter more than style. The metro is simple, and a rechargeable travel card works across the metro, trams and buses. Check current fares and how to top it up before you go.
Tram 28 is the famous one, running between Martim Moniz and Campo de Ourique. It is popular and often crowded, so go early and keep your bag zipped and in front of you.
What to eat
- Pastéis de nata: custard tarts. The bakery in Belém has been making them since 1837 and usually has a queue, which moves fast. Plenty of local bakeries make good ones with no wait.
- Petiscos: small plates, the easiest way to try several things at once.
- Seafood: grilled fish and shellfish are a local strength. Ask what is fresh today.
- Time Out Market: convenient and busy at peak times. Good for a first look, less so for a quiet dinner.
Dinner tends to start later than in the UK, so book ahead for popular places and check opening times, because many small restaurants close one day a week.
One easy day trip
Sintra is reachable by train from Rossio station in about 40 minutes. It is hilly and popular, so go early and check timetables and any ticket requirements in advance.